STREET STYLE
Thursday, 20 June 2013
Wednesday, 19 June 2013
Key Men’s Print/Pattern Shorts For Summer 2013
Introduction
Summer may not have been quite forthcoming in Britain so far; the wet and cold of the winter season has lingered longer than most would like. That saying, the world of fashion refuses to wait for the weather. Seasons come and go, whether the sun is out in full force or holds off until we no longer expect it, and with new seasons come new trends.
Print and pattern have been perennial contenders for wardrobe rail space in the past few seasons. We’ve seen variations appear on everything from shirts to trousers and even full suits. Today we break down the latest incarnation of the print movement, as we watch them venture into one of summer’s fail-safe staples: shorts.
So what are the key styles we should be looking out for this summer?
1. Stripes
Stripes are trending, yet again, across the board this season and the pattern should be considered an essential addition to any spring/summer capsule wardrobe. Designers continually look for new ways to reinvent stripes, so it’s not a surprise they feature here.
Possessing an obvious timeless appeal means you’re not splashing out on a one season wonder.Stripes are a great pattern to explore when looking to add some character to your summer looks without overstepping the boundary.
Our opening pattern is arguably the least bold of the four featured but is no less successful in creating dapper ensembles. A blue and white variant smacks of the nautical (a look that carries an inherent link with the warmer weather), whilst a bolder colour variant or a vertical take offers an interesting proposition for making a statement.
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Outfit Inspiration
Stripes can be integrated into your existing looks far easier than other, statement options. Avoid teaming with other stripes, especially those of a similar width. Too many and you risk resembling a convict, and an unflattering one at that.
The simplest option is – as with any look incorporating print – to pair your stripes with a neutral anchor, in this case the top half. A white shirt and complementary sweatshirt (either worn or draped over the shoulders) work perfectly with striped shorts to create a look that can adapt to changeable weather and temperatures.
Minimal, lightweight footwear, such as loafers or deck shoes, keeps the look seasonally-appropriate and sartorially on point. Blue is a major colour trend for SS13 and making use of it via your shoes is a great way to show you have one finger on the pulse (and the other on the captain’s wheel).
2. Camouflage
Camouflage, or ‘camo’, has been an unexpectedly dominant print for a number of years now. Despite this, on shorts it has an unsavoury stigma. Step away from the social stereotype of LADS abroad and upgrade your camo for a more stylish take.
Circumvent awful three-quarter length cuts and bulky cargo types (as well as a combination of both) at all costs. Opt instead for a closer, dare we say tailored, cut. Keep them above the knee and style them in manner far detached from football jerseys and shapeless shoes.
Isolate further from any unfortunate associations by searching for more contemporary takes on camo print, rather than traditional military replicas. A digitalised, leaf or animalistic variant is worth considering as a means of creating statement whilst retaining a touch of individuality.
Outfit Inspiration
Create an outfit that stands out from the militaristic norm by pairing camo shorts with a classic grey crew neck t-shirt. The bomber jacket has made waves this season and is the perfect spring/summer outerwear option. Layer a navy version over the top of the tee to a complete a perfectly on trend, off-duty look.
Finish with a pair of brown leather loafers to further distance yourself from the barracks and any other connotations that camo shorts can evoke.
3. Floral
Let your outfits flourish with another of this season’s major prints. No longer perceived as feminine (or simply the reserve of a Hawaiian shirt), botanicals have been big business in recent months. Floral prints, whether on shirts, ties, jackets or, in this case, shorts, have dominated collections industry wide.
Floral designs on legwear may conjure images of awfully bulky board shorts, but keep the silhouette slim and the length just above the knee for a piece that offers a positive style statement.
Tone down the rest of the look with a timeless approach – double floral isn’t going to win you any points, nor is a clash of prevalent patterns.
Outfit Inspiration
Adopt a masculine take on floral this season via a pair of navy shorts with all-over botanical bloom. A simple polo shirt that complements the legwear creates the perfect combination for a summer garden party. The polo collar offers structure whereas the relaxed nature of a t-shirt is slightly too casual.
Complete with relaxed, slip-on leisure-style shoes to match the breezy nature of the rest of the ensemble.
4. Embroidered
The recent explosion of print has ushered in motifs and patterns aplenty, including those found in all-over embroidery. These sparsely patterned pieces are a subtler way to integrate the trend into your wardrobe in a refined manner.
A tailored short complete with an understated embroidered design lends itself to audacious pattern mixing and more muted timeless looks with equal aplomb. Animal motifs have proved popular, as have anchor prints – providing an of-the-moment take on the classic nautical aesthetic.
Outfit Inspiration
Prepare for the inevitably indifferent British summer with a look ready for both sun and showers. Layer a navy fisherman jacket over a light blue Oxford shirt for a tonal blue top half.
Ready yourself for the rising mercury with a pair of shorts that feature a quirky all-over pattern – palm trees hint at a wanting for the warmer weather to prevail.
Brown leather driving shoes complete the outfit and partner effortlessly with the blue shirt and navy jacket in a complementary manner.
Conclusion
With print and pattern having exploded across the fashion industry at every level, the trend isn’t the inaccessibly eccentric statement it once was. With menswear always having one foot rooted in tradition, a pair of (appropriately cut) printed or patterned shorts is a superb way to add a bold element to your summer looks without stepping too far out of your comfort zone.
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Thursday, 25 April 2013
1920's Style!
Introduction
The 1960s is often heralded as the decade that reshaped and invigorated the fashion world, but in my opinion, the 1920s are not given enough credit. A shift in attitude towards dressing in the later years of the decade paved the path that fashion has since moved along, occasionally wandering but always reflecting on its origins and taking cues from the era.
As the 1920s progressed, technology, jazz and marketing all expanded and evolved – although it is often felt that the traditional attire most men wore at the time did not reflect these advancements.
The focus of this article is on the later years of the 1920s, which was a period draped in luxury and extravagance.
The 1920s: A Shift In Attitude
Fashion of the 1920s is characterised by two contrasting periods, where tradition and resourcefulness preceded the extravagance of the ‘Roaring Twenties’. Post World War I, fabric was something of a luxury. Returning soldiers, as much as the public, were keen to put the horrors of the war behind them and this meant that the classic Victorian garb and military jackets were to be replaced.
It wasn’t that fashion was responsible for the disregard of conventional mores of the time, but fashion was certainly part of an avant-garde movement led by artists all over Europe, who were trying to affect the arts. They attempted to readdress the distinct gap between art and life; it was their belief that there was no division between ‘fine’ art and ‘applied’ art.
Inspired designers began to fuse luxury and practical wear, throwing restrictive dress out the window, whilst a period of global economic boom meant a tide of opulence and elegance swept the nation. Regimented, formal dress made way to freedom and expression – values that wove their way into the very fabric of the fashion industry.
Men’s 1920s Fashion
In the 1920s, colour was kept to a minimum. Suits were typically neutral in colour but any garments in shades of cream were usually a sign of extreme wealth and suaveness. Accessories such as pocket squares, pocket watches and boutonnières remained monochromatic, with a clear emphasis on the whole outfit rather than any individual aspect.
Jackets were usually single-breasted and tended to have wide, peak lapels, which would finish towards the breast rather than higher up – like most modern counterparts. Underneath, double-breasted vests were often paired with an accompanying pocket watch; a combination that many contemporary style icons, as well as designers like Hackett and Ralph Lauren Purple Label, have been utilising recently to great effect.
Pinstripe was a popular choice of pattern at the time and its existence among the elite of society was perhaps the source of its negative connotations today. Matt Allinson has already detailed how to bring the pinstripe suit up to date, and with the strong vertical lines giving off the impression of power and confidence, it is a pattern that works well for men who embody the same characteristics.
Club collar shirts in white or light blue were often anchored by ties with small geometric patterns, completing the top half of a customary 1920s outfit.
Wide-legged trousers, known as ‘Oxford bags’ at the time, have been gently tapping at the door of the fashion community in the past couple of years. David Gandy was snapped looking particularly striking in a pair at London Fashion Week, with the broad silhouette helping to add a touch of masculinity and confidence.
When trying to introduce wide-legged trousers into your own wardrobe, it is worth noting thatthose with longer legs will be able to pull off this look most successfully. Those who are shorter in height should instead opt for slim and tapered cuts, which will help lengthen the appearance of your legs.
Key Influence: The Great Gatsby
A source of inspiration for the 1920s look can be found in the 1974 film adaptation of The Great Gatsby, starring Robert Redford. While the film has nothing on the novel, the costumes worn won an Academy Award and highlight the glitz and glamour of the era in all its glory.
The film also includes the regular use of cable knit jumpers in a casual environment, referencing the arrival of sportswear into men’s fashion. Sportswear has been a mainstay of the catwalk for a few seasons now and it was in the 1920s when the benefit of exercise became common knowledge.
Though the clothing of the time had none of the technical aspects of today, the humble sweater was a radical item of casual attire that perfectly exemplifies the change in attitude towards sport and off-duty dressing:
Bringing The Look Up To Date
On The Ruways: SS13
The 1920s influence was present in many of the high fashion SS13 runway shows, with the likes of Ralph Lauren, Hackett, Canali and Alexander McQueen modernising key pieces and looks from the era.
Men’s 1920s Inspired Lookbook
The lookbook below picks out key pieces from the 1920s and shows you how to incorporate them into a modern day outfit.
Whether you have a penchant for wide-legged trousers, pinstripe tailoring, club collars or tonal cream outfits this look doesn’t have to appear old-fashioned or out of date. The key is to balance traditional with contemporary and create your own take utilising classic menswear pieces.
Inspired By: Outfit 1
Aside from the flamboyance of the era, the twenties were also renowned for advancements in air travel, thanks to Charles Lindbergh. With that in mind, the aviator jacket has much historical significance and is the perfect piece of statement outerwear to complement the popular wide pinstripe suit.
In a dark, neutral colour with a good structured shoulder, the foundation of the outfit is complete. Underneath, a double-breasted cardigan provides a soft, louche touch to an otherwise imposing silhouette.
Two tone brogues are an integral part of 1920s attire, but these saddle shoes with three contrasting colours inject a welcome shot of jovial vibrancy to a particularly striking look:
Inspired By: Outfit 2
In the 1920s, as casual wear became more acceptable, separates were utilised to breach the divide between formal attire and sportswear.
This smart-casual way of dressing is not new to us but to relay the signature aesthetic of the period, a little twist on our definition is needed. Try a cricket jumper in its traditional form – cable knit, v-neck, cream in colour – over the top of a white unbuttoned shirt, with a cravat (that picks out a colour in the bands on the jumper) tied loosely around the neck.
To bring a modern edge to the look, relaxed cotton chinos in a pastel red play on the current industry emphasis on colour, and are grounded by some off-white nubuck shoes:
Inspired By Pieces
Final Word
The 1920s is a decade that is rightfully coming into the limelight again. It is an era that holds a lot more influence over fashion than most people realise, but it still retains an aura all of its own; one crossed with fantasy, power and of course, luxury.
Italiano Style!
Italian Style
Italian style is much more eclectic than many people come to assume, with regional nuances adding variety and characterising local tastes. Italy is a vast country, and with an emphasis on style up and down the nation, a jovial battle emerges between different regions.
For example, Roman and Neapolitan jackets are very different from each other. The silhouette in northern Italy tends to differ from its southern counterparts in its simplicity, with no extraneous details or spalla camicia (‘shirt shoulder’ to you and me) in the former. By contrast, a signature of Neapolitan jackets is their waterfall or ‘shirt sleeve’, which is different to the soft shoulder by way of the sleeve head (wider) fitting into the shoulder (narrower).
More generally, Italian suits are usually constructed with a higher gorge – the seam that connects the jacket’s collar to the lapel – than their British counterparts. Neapolitan and Sicilian tailors make the gorge higher still; a discrete but defining touch that makes their garments instantly recognisable.
Dolce & Gabbana frequently tap into their Sicilian heritage, capturing the spirit of the iconic fishermen and local attire. Sicily finds itself as the link between the modern, industrialised Western culture and the temptations of the sun and the sea. In these aspects do Stephano and Domenico draw inspiration and evolve designs containing the eminence of open footwear, dark tailoring and prints:
Brand To Watch
Many words have been written about the household names of Italy, but what about those labels that embody Italian style somewhat under the radar? Four of my favourite labels that have a kinder price point, whilst retaining a wholly Italian elegance are: Boglioli, Esemplare, Camo and Mr Rick Tailor.
The latter produces gorgeous, fitted jackets for an affordable price, with beautiful Italian nuances such as contrasting under-collars and breast pocket inner-linings. As with all Italian tailoring, construction takes precedence over style, and Mr Rick Tailor’s tapered seams and high armholes prove just that.
Boglioli are known as one of the best, if not THE best, off-the-rack makers of unstructured cotton jackets in the world. The quality of the materials means that the drapes of the jackets are beautiful, engulfing you in luxury fit for Berlusconi himself. Accordingly, the price point is a little higher.
More youthful vibes are found in the lookbooks of Esemplare and Camo, both of whom integrate technical aspects to their stellar line of tailoring. One of Camo’s signature pieces are trousers with a high waist and relaxed silhouette.
Brands To Watch Lookbook
Boglioli Clothing
Mr Rick Tailor Clothing
Esemplare Clothing
Camo Clothing
The True Art Of Sprezzatura
Much is made of sprezzatura and its eminence among Italian men, and rightly so. The art of sprezzatura, commonly defined as “a certain nonchalance, so as to conceal all art and make whatever one does or say appear to be without effort and almost without any thought about it”, relies on attention to detail.
Dedicating time to think and experiment with outfit ideas is the key to looking stylish without any apparent effort. Just as important is the careful selection of elements or ‘rules of styles’ to be broken, so as to conceal your unruly antics.
As Matt Allinson has referenced, there is a difference between knowing the rules and breaking them, and not knowing the rules and breaking them. The former often signifies a well dressed man, as the rules are broken in good taste and for good reason.
Therefore a thorough knowledge of your body type, personality, skin colour and current location is paramount in attaining true style. For example, a soft canvassed Neapolitan jacket may look tempting but if you have a big chest and round shoulders, the fit can make you look more like a gorilla than a handsome, stylish gent.
A similar problem is found for those who try to replicate Italian style, but end up looking unoriginal and/or gimmicky. I am thinking of a tie over a jumper, a watch over a shirt cuff or even sporting a tie pin, boutonnière and pocket square all at once.
Scott Schuman, who has captured the essence of many stylish Italian men for his renowned street style website The Sartorialist, believes these details are made in the wrong taste and are thus not real sprezzatura. “Why people react to Italian style is the grace with which these gentlemen inhabit their clothes.”
With this in mind, one should consider losing these extraneous elements and opting for a more subtle approach – perhaps manipulating your tie knot, learning a new way to arrange your handkerchief, or leaving one of your monk straps unbuckled:
The art of not looking too ‘try hard’ is embedded in Italian style. Confidence is imperative in relaying to others that you are comfortable in your clothes. Entertain a simple equation: the more flamboyant the attire of x is, the more confident x has to be.
Therefore, that panache you are trying to exude should be made with the removal of your ego, a smile and willingness to make mistakes. Such authentic motives are of far more importance than whether you should lose the laces or not, and make for a wonderful display of rakish charm that befits the Italian male.
Outfit Inspiration
Italian Street Style
Outfit One
Dressing down the formality of business attire is second nature to the Italians. Pinstripe suits are often considered very formal, but the soft shouldered, single button jacket below exhibits a loucheness that makes work seem less strenuous.
The Oxford button-down shirt is an element of this outfit that, at first, looks out of place. However, with a sartorial tweak of leaving the collar unbuttoned, the impression is of a soft-collared business appropriate shirt. An elegant wool and silk knitted tie brings the look up a notch, with its intricacy adding valuable style points.
Orange and navy complement each other beautifully, and an elaborate, orange dominant handkerchief has a rakish quality that is of paramount importance in this business-casual look.
Double monk shoes give a twist to formal footwear. These suede green versions inject a sense of rebellion into the outfit, with the scuffs the suede will pick up adding character:
Outfit Two
This more casual outfit focuses on separates, which is a prominent look among the Italian contingent – the balance of work and play proving irresistible. A linen or lightweight cotton blazer is appropriate for the warmer months, and you can dress it down with an on trend mid blue/teal t-shirt, preferably in a v-neck. A shirt, suitably unbuttoned, is the smarter alternative.
White trousers are a staple for the Italian male. In this instance, they are not used to anchor bolder colours but simply to reinforce a summer aesthetic.
Playing a tonal game, a mid blue belt provides a subtle yet eye-catching accent – try moving the buckle askew or wrapping it around itself, as this will help to individualise the look.
A boutonniere provides a small dash of colour and personality that speaks volumes of the person wearing it. Its size, colour and thus its role in the outfit below all giving an impression that befits the character. That said, if you’re confident and willing, ignore my feeble tonal talk and whack a crazy tie in your breast pocket because, you know, it’s the weekend and where else are you meant to put your favourite tie?
Final Word
The Italians have a sense of style that bears great resemblance to their country’s famous landmarks, which demand attention for their visual power and elegance. Crucially, however, it appears devoid of the decay of time.
There is nothing transient about Italian style, which is a result of a generational appreciation of the immortal fundamentals of style: fit, cut and colour. Therefore, Italian style is one that men of all dispositions can garner inspiration from, bringing the best of Europe to our shores.
But now I want to hear what you think:
- Are Italian men among the most stylish on the planet?
- What aspects of Italian style do you like to integrate into your own look?
- What is your favourite way to add a touch of sprezzatura to your outfits?
- What other countries are deserving of their own style breakdown?
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